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    Ocean wave dynamics in the coastal area of the central west coast of India and its variability

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    Oce_Engine_227_108880.pdf (3.219Mb)
    Date
    2021
    Author
    Aravind, P.
    Amrutha, M.M.
    SanilKumar, V.
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    Abstract
    Examined the spatial and temporal changes in the wave spectra using waves measured in the coastal area at two locations for three years. Long-term variability is examined with ERA5 reanalysis data. The annual average wave spectra have a significant wave height (Hs) of ~1m at both locations. During the Asian monsoon (June-September), the highest wave spectra resulted in Hs of 5.1m. Frequently, the wave pattern is with Hs of 0.4-0.8m and mean period of 3-8s. Annually, ~67% of the time, spectra consists of waves from 210 to 230�, 250-260�, and 300-310� with high waves (Hs > 4m) from southwest (250-260�). Due to the presence of significant wind-seas and swells, energy at the secondary spectral peak is ~38% of energy at the principal peak. During February-May, the sea state is dominated (~50% of time) by locally generated waves and young swells, while in monsoon, the swells are large (66-75%). Principal component (PC) of spectral energy density shows that monsoon and cyclonic storms are resulting in a large variability (~90%) in the first mode. Even though the wave characteristics are similar within 125 km distance, some metrological events cause significant changes in the waves and it resulted in different 100-year return period values at these locations.
    URI
    https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2021.108880
    https://drs-beta.nio.org/drs/handle/2264/8589
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